Raised the front end

I learned at KLR650.net that many KLR's left their dealerships with the front end in the 'shipping position'.  My forks tubes were clamped with their tops about an inch above the top clamp.  I also read in the forum that when you install lowering links it is advisable to drop the front end the same amount.  It took some more research, but I found out that the stock links are 125mm from hole-to-hole.  Mine measured 125 +/-, so I decided that the dealership screwed up.  I found the top clamps on the gators loose, another big hint IMO.  The gators looked very squashed after I installed the EM fork brace, but not now!

While I had the front end raised with a jack, I bleed the air from the fork tubes as instructed in the owners manual.  Recently, I had bleed the air with the bike on the ground-- oops!

I put a few miles on the bike afterward, and did notice an improvement in handling.  

I forgot to snap a picture before, but you can see the difference here

Installed dash panel and wiring

The dash panel is finally done.  I tested the 'safety bypass switch' and was very pleased that it worked as designed.  With the switch in the normal (off) position, all safety switches are still functional.

A very small flat blade screwdriver will extract the wire from the connector

After adding the switched-ground wire

Finished and re-installed to the igniter plug 

Wired the dash panel

I finally got around to wiring-up the dash panel.  I wanted to make it easy to remove and re-install, so I used mating connectors (and wire) from my KZ550's old harness.  One major oversight that I made was forgetting to paint the panel flat black prior to wiring it up.  The bare aluminum reflects sunlight right at my face at times.

I removed the switch on the far left, that I had planned to use to toggle between headlight and fan-on.  It rubbed on the windshield moumoonting point, and I decided to replace it with a 'safety bypass switch'.  I purchased the switch on ebay from China, and wired it so that it will provide a ground to the igniter (red/black wire) when switched-on.  A lot of guys remove the kickstand switch, etc., and bypass it.  I prefer to keep it installed and functional, but wanted to be able to quickly bypass if need-be on the road.

Shared to KLR650.net

The fuseholder holds a 5 amp glass fuse and is wired before the accessory outlet and voltmeter.  I used 16 gauge and larger wire and I don't plan to plug anything major into the outlet (just a possible GPS or cell phone, etc.).  I wired the switch on the far right directly to the 'city lights' 12V wire, the ground connection is to turn on the switch's LED.  

Re-wired the rear turn signals

I think the turn signals look ridiculous mounted that far back and at that height, but they're functional for now. 

Installed Tusk Pannier racks

I purchased these pannier racks from RockyMountainATVmc.com, along with the Tusk panniers.  The pannier boxes were on back-order, and they were nice enough to ship the racks separately (free shipping on both!).  I found the video very helpful, and instructions were included on paper in the box.  I decided to upgrade to 10.9 grade bolts, purchased from my local Ace Hardware for about $18.  The grade 8 bolts that came with the kit were questionable, in my opinion.

I did not use the butt connectors that were supplied for lengthening the turn signal wires.  Instead, I disassembled both signals and soldered additional wires inside.

Instead of cutting off the nubs on the signal stalk, I drilled holes in the spacer 

The holes for the helmet lock bolts were too small for the 6mm bolts

Sunrise ride to Wasco, IL

The plan was to visit friends in Anamosa, IA.  Without heated grips, it was a little too cold; I ate breakfast at McDonald's in Wasco, and returned home.  Maybe I'll try again in May or June.

Stopped at the Fox River to take a picture

This ugly duckling seemed to like the ugly KLR