Installed handlebar risers

I purchased these at RockyMountainAtvMc.com just a couple of days ago, and they arrived today.  I installed them after getting home from work and have not ridden the bike with them yet.  Standing on the pegs (on the side-stand) felt good, and I will find out tomorrow morning for sure.  I did use the spacers under the bolt heads, because it seemed like the bolts were close to bottoming-out.

Obviously, black would have looked better but these will do the job

Tested out the Heidenau K60's in mud

It rained last night.  Too muddy to really have any fun (with my lack of experience).  I almost lost it a few times, but was able to keep it right-side-up.  The guy that sold me the gas tank had told me about this place, and it was better than I had imagined!  I look forward to coming back next month when it is less muddy.

Upgraded my tail light to LED

This just came in the mail today, I found it "hardly used" on eBay for a good price.  It is the 'WOW' LED tail light kit from Happy Trail and found on KLR650.net.  Money well spent!!

Spare front wheel hub

...

Happy Trails master cylinder guard

Something that I had on eBay had sold, so I spent the PayPal credit on a rear master cylinder guard from Happy Trails.

Swing arm stand

I should have purchased this a long time ago.  With caution, I was able to set the bike up on it unassisted.  It seems to be pretty strong for the money.

http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-swingarm-rear-stand-65620.html

Raised the front end

I learned at KLR650.net that many KLR's left their dealerships with the front end in the 'shipping position'.  My forks tubes were clamped with their tops about an inch above the top clamp.  I also read in the forum that when you install lowering links it is advisable to drop the front end the same amount.  It took some more research, but I found out that the stock links are 125mm from hole-to-hole.  Mine measured 125 +/-, so I decided that the dealership screwed up.  I found the top clamps on the gators loose, another big hint IMO.  The gators looked very squashed after I installed the EM fork brace, but not now!

While I had the front end raised with a jack, I bleed the air from the fork tubes as instructed in the owners manual.  Recently, I had bleed the air with the bike on the ground-- oops!

I put a few miles on the bike afterward, and did notice an improvement in handling.  

I forgot to snap a picture before, but you can see the difference here

Installed dash panel and wiring

The dash panel is finally done.  I tested the 'safety bypass switch' and was very pleased that it worked as designed.  With the switch in the normal (off) position, all safety switches are still functional.

A very small flat blade screwdriver will extract the wire from the connector

After adding the switched-ground wire

Finished and re-installed to the igniter plug 

Wired the dash panel

I finally got around to wiring-up the dash panel.  I wanted to make it easy to remove and re-install, so I used mating connectors (and wire) from my KZ550's old harness.  One major oversight that I made was forgetting to paint the panel flat black prior to wiring it up.  The bare aluminum reflects sunlight right at my face at times.

I removed the switch on the far left, that I had planned to use to toggle between headlight and fan-on.  It rubbed on the windshield moumoonting point, and I decided to replace it with a 'safety bypass switch'.  I purchased the switch on ebay from China, and wired it so that it will provide a ground to the igniter (red/black wire) when switched-on.  A lot of guys remove the kickstand switch, etc., and bypass it.  I prefer to keep it installed and functional, but wanted to be able to quickly bypass if need-be on the road.

Shared to KLR650.net

The fuseholder holds a 5 amp glass fuse and is wired before the accessory outlet and voltmeter.  I used 16 gauge and larger wire and I don't plan to plug anything major into the outlet (just a possible GPS or cell phone, etc.).  I wired the switch on the far right directly to the 'city lights' 12V wire, the ground connection is to turn on the switch's LED.  

Re-wired the rear turn signals

I think the turn signals look ridiculous mounted that far back and at that height, but they're functional for now.